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Independent designers are the true face of slow fashion

Updated: Sep 1, 2022


Since 2013, when we started hearing about the Fashion Revolution movement, we started talking about a term that seems to be more and more familiar to consumers.


We think a lot when we hear about the sustainable fashion revolution, but the first thing that comes to mind when we imagine this concept is the term of "slow fashion".


But!... What are we talking about when we think in "Slow Fashion"?


The word slow fashion is translated in other languages as stop fashion, so it encompasses more than a trend, it is a way of thinking, acting and designing responsibly, where not only matter the materials used by designers, but the frequency and quantity that brands offer to the market.


When we talk about "Slow fashion", we also talk about production quantities, fair labor and responsible marketing, something that most of the companies that sell globally so far cannot ensure.


Even recently a well-known clothing brand was sued for claiming to have launched a "Green" collection where it did not waste the same amount of water, instead, according to an investigation they found that it wasted even more, so it is a clear gesture that we still can not truesth in 100% in the publicity and commercialization of sustainable fashion of these big brands.


Unfortunately more and more brands are tempted to produce in Taiwan, Bangladesh, India and China because of the costs and production rhythms. There are very today few brave brands that remain in local production that also respect human rhythms of production and rewarding local labor.


Most of these brave low production, are emerging designer brands that have to make great efforts to be seen globally.

Now also the impediment are the advertising costs of the great exponents of fashion, the mega costs of participating in catwalks and fashion shows, where the costs exceed €8000 euros per exhibition, plus the costs of developing a collection, photo shoot, models, space rental, showrooms, etc, etc.



When I look at all this, that's when it comes to mind only the emerging designers as the real engine of sustainable fashion that can only be slow and organic. For most of them, they tend to seek innovation and optimization out of mere necessity. Many of their creations end up being copied by biggest brands.


Because, let's be honest, Now Pinterest has been one of the most important social networks as a source of inspiration for the copy. As Sarai Simoyi said during the series of Netflix's "Next in Fashion" on 2019, "Emerging designers' ideas are not attractanting or create trend until they are realized by biggest fashion houses that can give better finishes. Then it is becomes cool and trendy."


Is it that fashion become just a simple consumer impulse?


But not everything is lost for "Slow fashion designers"... Thanks to new generations of costumers that now put better attention to topics as: planet pollution, body care, ethical products and sustainable practices, now is posible to move in this strong fast fashion industry.


The community of responsible and conscious consumption is growing more and more worldwide. And more and more fashion fans are looking for something really special that is not necessarily from a recognized brand, Now they are looking for something honest, with ethical ways of produce and with artisanal work behind it. Today more and more influencers, bloggers and stylings are creating synergy with emerging designers focused on sustainable fashion, helping them to cross the border between local market to the international.


Photo: Silvia Rasulo @silviarasuloph | Stylist: Antonio Musto @antonio_musto | Make-up: Aurora De Salvio @auroradesa_mua | Model: Isabel Malgarini @isalbelmalgarini (@indastriamodel)



Photo: Silvia Rasulo @silviarasuloph | Stylist: Antonio Musto @antonio_musto | Make-up: Aurora De Salvio @auroradesa_mua | Model: Isabel Malgarini @isalbelmalgarini (@indastriamodel)


In order to better understand this topic, we asked some industry experts their opinion about the importance of the role that independent designers play in the fashion industry. Among them we found Antonio Musto, Italian stylist based in Milan, who shared with us in an interview; how is his creative process, as well as his work with emerging designers, helping them to create a bridge that connects young and experimental designers with the fashion media that influences almost 100% of the consumer's tastes.



In Interview with Antonio Musto


What is Antonio's creative process and how does he select the garments he works with?

The first step is to look for images to create a moodboard, each editorial tells something and sometimes I like to be able to give multiple meanings to a story.

For the garments I collaborate with showrooms with which I have good relationships and I choose the garments with the style that I am going to represent and above all the lighting that will be used.

It's also nice to create looks in the same editorial that contrast with each other and at the same time go well together.


Do you think Slow Fashion is only for emerging designers?

Slow fashion now affects everyone a little bit and those who continue to ignore this phenomenon will soon become part of it, emerging designers are often more revolutionary and as the latest generation of the fashion industry, it is important that they adapt to sustainability.


Do you think sustainability could be the new luxury in fashion?

Sustainability is a luxury, buying sustainable is not an insignificant expense, but at the same time you can be sustainable with little by giving life to garments produced to last over time.

I believe that true sustainability is about buying clothes that last.


We thank Antonio Musto for the time he gave us in his interview and the images he shared with us of his work for this article.


Without a doubt his work is an important part of creating awareness in sustainable fashion and in the projection of new talents.


Slow fashion is undoubtedly growing and with it the awareness of each consumer that the new era of fashion, is not just buying the trend, but consuming ethically and responsibility.


And you? Are you going to keep buying fast Fashion or are you going to be part of the new ethical fashion ?


References



PIA REY. (2020). Slow Fashion o moda lenta: ¿qué es y cómo podemos identificarla?. De VOGUE Sitio web: https://www.vogue.mx/moda/articulo/slow-fashion-que-es-definicion




Sustainable Clothing - Haute à Porter


In Haute à Porter we incorporate materials and techniques designed for the union of the parts that make up the garments are durable adhering to our philosophy of zero waste.

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